How This Small Town Turned Me Less Grinchy and Made My Yuletides Gay
For decades, I’ve wanted to star in my own Hallmark Christmas movie, and I recently got my wish with a visit to charming Galena, Illinois.
There were some slight deviations from the usual script. While I played the role of a grinchy big-city career person too cool to believe in holiday magic, I’d already found my romantic lead—my husband, Michael—who’d joined me on the trip. But Galena didn’t need a meet-cute and a series of missed connections and misunderstandings to lift my holiday spirit; it had something better: queer-owned businesses, relaxing retreats, and a glowing Main Street filled with cheer (and quite the collection of gorgeous 19th-century buildings).
Galena is located about three hours from major cities such as Chicago and Milwaukee. We opted to fly into Cedar Rapids because Iowa was one of the three states I needed to achieve a dream of seeing all 50 (Nebraska and North Dakota, I’m eyeing you next). Before heading to Galena, we detoured at Cedar Rapids’ Czech Village, which began as a hub for Czech immigrants in the 1870s and is now home to the National Czech & Slovak Museum & Library, along with several cool shops and cafes. There’s also a striking clock tower and a bridge that resembles the famous Charles Bridge in Prague, while a rainbow crosswalk and several pride flags made us feel all the more welcome.
From there, we drove to Hawk Valley Retreat & Cottages, a gay-owned, adults-only bed and breakfast. Though just eight miles from downtown Galena, the property’s secluded meadows, ponds, gardens, and walking trails (which were beautifully blanketed in snow) emphasized the word retreat.
We stayed in the Somerset Cottage, a spacious one-bedroom suite with amenities such as a gas fireplace, spa tub, double walk-in shower, and an ultra-comfortable bed. It was hard to pry ourselves away from this relaxing and romantic space, yet it was worth it to chat with owners Jim and John, two of the friendliest people I’ve ever met. Their decades of hospitality experience were on full display as they went out of their way to ensure we had a great stay. They also served up a terrific hot breakfast every morning in the picturesque Cording Event Barn, where we feasted on pancakes, homemade cinnamon buns, and fresh eggs from Hawk Valley’s resident chickens while taking in a panoramic view of the property and pretty birds also enjoying some grub.
It was hard to leave, especially with the weather dropping to below zero, but despite being the coldest I’ve ever felt in my life, we strolled Main Street. Dubbed the “Helluva Half Mile,” it’s lined with independently owned businesses (I loved that the town champions them over chains). On this particular night, we were treated to the Night of the Luminaria & Living Windows, an annual event where over 5,000 luminaries light up the town and stores come alive with holiday-themed displays featuring people (and, in some cases, animals such as goats and mini horses) in costume, ranging from a dancing Cookie Monster to Victorian-era children and Santa Claus taking a bubble bath. I also got to go face-to-face with the OG Grinch and meet Krampus, a folklore creature that punishes misbehaving children during the Christmas season (and star of the namesake movie, which is one of my holiday faves).
With so many shops, restaurants, and eateries lining Main Street, it was easy to warm up. Some of our favorite stops included wine tasting at Galena Cellars (Eric the Red is a popular choice), grabbing freshly made empanadas, sweet treats and much-needed hot beverages at the gay-owned Galena Bakehouse, sifting through antiques at Peace of the Past, and browsing vintage clothes at the Neighborhood Trading Co., a beloved LGBTQ+ safe space. We also enjoyed sipping martinis at Miss Kitty’s Grape Escape, browsing bestsellers at Galena Book and Paper, and embracing our inner kids at Poopsie’s, a neighborhood gem with a wide selection of toys and gifts for all ages. Everywhere we went, the locals were friendly, chatty, and welcoming, making me feel less grinchy by the minute.
For meals, we feasted at Fritz and Frites, a top-rated bistro restaurant described as “a little German … a little French … a little bistro.” Any place where I can get mouth-watering schnitzel, frites, and a piping-hot baguette is already a win in my book, but the cozy atmosphere and terrific service only heightened the experience. Plus, the atmosphere was cozy and the service terrific. Fried Green Tomatoes was an equally great restaurant housed in a former pharmacy. Its namesake dish made me love tomatoes, while the steaks, pastas and service were also fantastic.
After eating, drinking, and shopping our way through Main Street, we took in the luminaries lining the area. Walking across a candlelit bridge over the frozen Galena River to Grant Park was both peaceful and stunning—enough to make me forget the freezing temps and continue thawing my cold heart. On the bridge, Michael and I snuck a kiss, ensuring I did indeed have my Hallmark moment and made the yuletide all the more gay. Despite my best efforts to resist, our experiences in Galena gave me a boost of Christmas cheer.
